Although the region of Notranjska in central Slovenia can be merciless in terms of winter weather (rigid temperatures and snow) and consequently in terms of wildlife variety, the intermittent lake of Cerknica (Cerkniško jezero) is a place that rarely disappoints. In January the lake has produced several interesting sightings of (the very elusive) Otters Lutra lutra (here & here), as well as Wolves Canis lupus (here), made by the Notranjska regional park staff and some locals. We didn't manage to visit the lake at all this winter and the last time we were there was in November, when large numbers of migrating Cranes Grus grus stopped to rest (blog). Now, at the time when the first returning Crane flocks are already migrating back to Europe, we visited the lake again in the company of Paul. And the weather was so sunny and warm that it already felt like spring!
But first thing in the morning we stopped on the river Unica near the Planina cave, to enjoy the resident DipperCinclus cinclus which didn't disappoint.
At lake Cerknica the water levels have been dropping steadily for some weeks, due to absence of rainfalls. As a result the lake was mostly empty, but the few areas with remaining water were full of birds. There was a large flock of 77 Great EgretsArdea alba in communal fishing, as well as a small flock of dabbling ducks, including WigeonMareca penelope (5), PintailAnas acuta (5), MallardAnas platyrhynchos, among which there was a female GoosanderMergus merganser, an unusual guest on the lake. In the area of deeper water we managed to locate the small flock of GoldeneyeBucephala clangula (7), containing also a pair of SmewMergellus albellus. The latter is a particularly rare winter appearance in central and western Slovenia and Cerkniško jezero seems to be the only reliable spot to see them in the region. In the past weeks up to 4 birds were observed on the lake, but probably due to the low water levels, some might have moved elsewhere and only two remained. The two Smews were always pretty distant for photography, so Silvio Davison sent us his excellent pics from a few days before our visit (some even better pics here).
But the day's highlight were not waterbirds. It was an adult White-tailed EagleHaliaeetus albicilla, a rather common species on the lake (at least one pair visits the lake on a daily basis). However this time we managed to get incredibly good views of this quite shy animal, as we spotted it perched on the ice by the lake, from one of the forest roads.
White-tailed EagleHaliaeetus albicilla
Apart from a male Marsh HarrierCircus aeruginosus, 3 SnipeGallinago gallinago and a few other commoner waterbirds, there weren't many other notable birds on the lake - it's still Notranjska in winter after all! However the forest around the lake produced a pair of Grey-headed WoodpeckersPicus canus and in the warmest hours of the day we enjoyed the season's first BrimstonesGonepteryx rhamni (no less than 6), Large TortoiseshellNymphalis polychloros, as well as Carniolan Honey BeesApis mellifera carnica pollinating the blooming Christmas RosesHelleborus niger.
The intermittent lake of Cerknica was almost completely dry.
View over the dry lake with mount Triglav in the distance.
Grey-headed WoodpeckerPicus canus
Carniolan Honey BeeApis mellifera carnica on Christmas RoseHelleborus niger
Meanwhile on the coast, at Škocjanski zatok NR it has been rather quiet for most of the past two months. However in the recent two weeks some early signs of waterbird migration were visible. The freshwater wetland is now quite lively with large (for our standards) numbers of WigeonMareca penelope, ShovelerSpatula clypeata & TealAnas crecca, while GadwallMareca strepera and the occasional diving ducks are represented in smaller numbers. On the 16th of February the first SpoonbillPlatalea leucorodia of the season was a very welcome sight, while on the 18th a flock of 24 LapwingsVanellus vanellus turned up in the wet meadows, alongside around 10 CurlewNumenius arquata and +20 SnipeGallinago gallinago. Also two White-fronted GeeseAnser albifrons have been present throughout winter. Other recent interesting sightings at the reserve included ShelduckTadorna tadorna, Zitting CisticolaCisticola juncidis (rare winter record), GoshwakAccipiter gentilis, WoodlarkLullula arborea (12) and the first flock of CranesGrus grus on migration (35 on the 14th). Speaking of Cranes, a small flock passed also over our house on the evening of the 16th. Many more will be migrating through our country in the next weeks. More bird news from Škocjanski zatok NR on FB & the reserve's website.
The relatively mild weather of the last couple of weeks has allowed us to visit the Dinaric mountain forests of Javorniki-Snežnik several times. Usually in winter all but a few forest roads are closed due to snow and so access is quite limited. Moreover exploring vast karstic areas on foot in deep snow is not very practical. But recently the conditions were more favourable and so we took the chance to go and visit some territories of White-backed Woodpeckers Dendrocopos leucotos lilfordi. On the 23rd of January I (Domen) visited a known territory in a rather ugly commercial forest of the Javorniki mountains, where back in spring 2019 we found a White-back's nest. The forest, being rather intensively harvested, lacks the proper amounts of dead wood on the ground, which is so important for the White-backed Woodpecker. However back in 2014 the area was hit by a severe ice-storm and the tree's canopies have all been (at least partly) damaged. Today, this results in quite large amounts of dead branches in the canopies of live, vital trees - something that is apparently well-suited for the White-backed Woodpecker. But only occasionally one can find proper dead trees, with signs of the woodpecker's old nests or its feeding signs. The forest floor looks very "clean" indeed.
Commercial beech (Fagus sylvatica) forest where White-backed Woodpecker persists.
Beech snags with Fomes fomentarius are difficult to come across in commercial forests.
Feeding signs of White-backed Woodpecker.
The forest was extremely silent, as usual in winter, but this made listening to pecking woodpeckers particularly favourable. Following a rather faint, but insistent pecking on a tall beech, I was rather surprised to find a Lesser Spotted WoodpeckerDryobates minor in this type of forest. The species usually inhabits lowland or hilly woodlands and is quite scarce in the higher elevations of the Dinaric mountains. A good find, but still, not the species I've been looking for.
Lesser Spotted WoodpeckerDryobates minor (female).
Later on, I finally came across a larger woodpecker. It was pecking somewhere above my head, but I couldn't see it at first. Upon inspection I was quite disappointed to discover it was an ordinary Great Spotted WoodpeckerDendrocopos major. But as it flew off, a second woodpecker caught my attention on a nearby tree. This was a stunning male White-backed WoodpeckerDendrocopos leucotos lilfordi instead. Both species were busy feeding on the same trees, but the White-back didn't like the presence of the Great Spotted, so there was quite a lot of chasing around. They didn't seem bothered by my presence as they kept feeding intensively and even the White-backed allowed unusually good views. It was frequently feeding for long minutes on a precise spot and not moving around without stopping, as it happens very often. I could therefore watch it more or less in the same area for the next two hours (short video here). In the late afternoon, as the sun was beginning to fall, I had to abandond this obliging individual and head back to the car.
"Woodpecker sign" on a beech snag that should be preserved from cutting.
The first Christmas Roses Helleborus niger in bloom.
Wood SpurgeEuphorbia amygdaloides poking out of the snow.
Mt. Snežnik's snowy summit in the distance.
On the 30th of January we were again up in the mountains, this time on the Snežnik plateau. Some of the smaller snow-covered forest roads were dotted with footprints and offered a great insight into the winter activity of the local fauna. The most interesting were the tracks of a Wolf Canis lupus, the odd Brown Bear Ursus arctos (in Slovenia bears don't hibernate continuously through winter) and Pine Marten Martes martes, while a bit more ordinary were those of Red Deer Cervus elaphus, Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus, Wild Boar Sus scrofa and Fox Vulpes vulpes.
Footprints of WolfCanis lupus...
...and those of Brown BearUrsus arctos
This time we were also in a rather "tidy" commercial beech forest, trying to track down a pair of White-backed Woodpeckers we've been following for several years now. It was sad to see that one of the traditional nesting trees, used by the pair of White-backs for several consecutive years, fell down (probably by the force of wind). Such trees are excellent nesting sites, but they are very difficult to come across in commercial forests.
Old nesting tree of White-backed Woodpecker, defeated by the wind.
Broadleaved forests in the Slovenian mountains are rarely pure beech stands, but always contain some silver firs Abies alba too, especially on sloping or steeper terrains. Therefore when we came across a Three-toed WoodpeckerPicoides tridactylus, a coniferous forest specialist, we weren't really surprised, although extremely pleased nevertheless. A handsome male with extensive white on the back (resembling the northern, nominate tridactylus subspecies) was feeding on a dying fir and showing superbly down to 5-8 metres. The typical tame behaviour of the species allowed us to observe the bird for more than half an hour, before it slowly worked its way high up in the tree.
Male Three-toed WoodpeckerPicoides tridactylus - note extensive white on the back.
Three-toed WoodpeckerPicoides tridactylus - turn volume on & listen to the pecking.
Small stand of silver firs Abies alba where we observed the Three-toed Woodpecker.
Although we walked the known territory extensively, the White-backed Woodpecker proved elusive, as we only managed to hear it calling in the distance. However later in the afternoon, almost when the warm late winter sun was beginning to set, we were very pleased to hear a White-back drumming spontaneously - the first drumming of the season! We were also rather surprised to see small numbers of Marsh TitsPoecile palustris, instead of the usual Willow Tits Poecile montanus (which are so typical of mountain forests in Slovenia), while TreecreepersCerthia familiaris and CrossbillsLoxia curvirostra were more usual. The day was rounded up with a nice pair of NutcrackersNucifraga caryocatactes visiting some black pines Pinus nigra at the edge of the forest and nice views over the rocky pastures on the southern slopes of the plateau.
Eurasian TreecreeperCerthia familiaris
Marsh TitPoecile palustris
The saplings of Silver firAbies alba frequently choose peculiar spots for germination.
Old beech trees at the edge of the forest, bordering the rocky pastures.
Dinaric rocky grasslands on the edge of the forest.
Mt. Učka (1396 m, Croatia) sticking out of the fog.